Life in Paris: Everything You Need to Know About Christmas in Paris
If you plan on spending all or part of Christmas in Paris this year, rejoice! This will be a fabulous opportunity to explore the holiday traditions of your adopted homeland.
Get ready now for Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and the Epiphany. The countdown has already begun, so now is time to prioritize! T – 15….
While nothing could be more wonderful than Christmas in Paris , you may still feel a twinge of melancholy to find yourself far away and separated from loved ones. To prevent the blues from taking hold, it is important to include a little bit of back home in your Parisian fêtes. Embracing France’s holiday customs needn’t prevent you honoring your long-standing family traditions as well.
Blend old with the new
First of all, close your eyes and call forth your fondest memory from Christmases past. Mine is the moment when, after a fine meal, we would dim the lights for cherries jubilee. My grandmother would read a short prayer expressing gratitude, and when her voice began to tremble with emotion, most of us would cry a little, and then my grandfather would wipe away his tears, light the kirsch and twirl the blue flames before ladling out the dark red cherries over homemade meringues and vanilla ice cream. The cherries were perfectly hot and just boozy enough to make us children feel a bit grown-up. It was a sacred ritual that warmed our hearts and bellies.
Your own favorite memory is important because therein lies the secret to what makes the holidays magical for you. For me, any Christmas must include a benediction of gratitude, excellent food prepared with love, an elegant table setting, sparkling lights and decorations, and dressing up for the occasion.
Where & With Whom
This being said, the amount of creative freedom you have may be limited, depending upon where and with whom you will be spending the holidays in France. Whatever the case, identify at least three rituals that are particularly important to you, and find a way to incorporate them into your celebrations.
If you are in a couple and both you and your partner are expatriates, you have complete freedom. If, on the other hand, you’ve married a Frog, and belle-maman is hosting, make yourself gorgeous and let her run the show. Focus on enjoying the experience and absorbing all that is new and different about it.
A word about being a guest in a Parisian dinner. If the invitation is for 7 o’clock, don’t rush to ring the doorbell on the dot. Give your hostess a 10 to 15 minute leeway. If you’ll be more than a half hour late, however, you should let her know. The supreme elegance is to send your hostess flowers the day before with your calling card and a note of thanks. Although flowers are almost always appreciated, showing up with a wrapped bouquet can prove distracting for your hostess, who must dash off to find a vase for the flowers, rather than looking after guests. A lovely bottle of wine, a box of fine chocolates, or even a copy of a wonderful book you recommend are all appropriate.
If you have children, I have included a checklist of family-friendly activities further on. A word of warning to the single: if there is even the slightest risk that you could find yourself alone during the holidays, get cracking! You are absolutely, positively not allowed to be alone on December 24th, 25th or 31st. That’s an order. I’ll never forget the time many years ago, when I was a student in Paris, and a friend sent a hand-delivered note to ensure that I had plans for Christmas, and welcomed me to join his family. I was very fortunate that he reached out to me, but I have since learnt to take the initiative myself, rather than find myself alone on the holidays.
Another time, I was adopted by a dear friend’s family just outside of Paris, in Créteil, whose parents were born in Martinique. We started off with a powerful p’tit punch, ate roasted ham, spicy boudin antillais and many other traditional West Indian dishes, lovingly prepared by Victoire, my adopted French maman. Christmas is all about sharing, and most people would be thrilled to adopt you for the evening, but they can’t always guess. It really is up to you to let them know.
Let’s move on to the essential elements of a traditional Parisian Christmas. All are family friendly.
Christmas Mass
Although French society continues to become more and more secularized, roughly 61% of its citizens still consider themselves to be Catholic (and an additional 4% Protestant). (According to a survey conducted by the Institut Français d’opinion publique (IFOP) in 2011 for le Journal du Dimanche.)
Therefore, the faithful still attend midnight mass to celebrate the birth of Jesus, although nowadays, most churches offer services earlier in the evening to accommodate families and their dinner plans. The most prestigious celebrations are held on December 24th and 25th at the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur de Montmartre, Notre-Dame de Paris, and the Church of La Madeleine, complete with concerts and choirs. Services are also held in churches in every arrondissement.
The many English-language churches in Paris organize a plethora of Christmas concerts and candlelight services. Attending an English-language service, especially when you’re feeling homesick, provides an instant sense of connection, a warm sense of community, and a chance to belt out familiar Christmas carols.
I highly recommend the Christmas Eve service at the American Cathedral of Paris located on avenue George V, as well as the many other English-language services offered by the American Church in Paris, Quai d’Orsay, Saint Michael’s Anglican, and Saint Joseph’s Catholic churches.
Christmas Trees
In France, Christmas trees are generally hammered into a base made of a half-log, which means they dry out much faster than a tree stand in water. Some places, such as IKEA, offer potted trees. I purchased a beautiful Nordmann tree at Monceau Fleurs near my home. It is best to find a tree dealer near your home, in case you have to lug it yourself. Try to buy during off-peak hours. That way, you may be able to negotiate home delivery, in exchange for a good tip. Think to buy the golden tree sack (sac à sapin) sold by Handicap International and available wherever Christmas trees are sold. It decorates the base of the tree, then after Christmas you slip it over the tree like a giant trash bag to facilitate disposal. All proceeds from the golden tree sack go to Handicap International.
Christmas Promenades in Paris
Here are several possible Christmas walks through Paris, which could be enjoyed over several days.
Most Parisians make the pilgrimage to view the extravagant Christmas window displays of the grands magasins on boulevard Haussmann. At Galéries Lafayette, this year’s window campaign celebrates Star Wars, and Léon, an adorable little robot. Famed French choreographer Philippe Découflé designed this year’s “Conte de Noël” campaign at neighboring Printemps. Walk up rue Tronchet towards place de la Madeleine to ogle Fauchon’s gastronomical winter wonderland.
On the Left Bank, Le Bon Marché also has splendid window displays and on the 2nd floor, an entire section dedicated to Christmas decorations. The Grande Epicerie of Le Bon Marché is perfect for Paris-themed stocking stuffers, such as Eiffel Tower-shaped chocolates.
Your children can visit with Santa Claus (Père Noël) at specific times at most of the large department stores.
Across the street from Fauchon, the Church of the Madeleine features a nativity scene created by the French sculptress Pauline Ohrel. Its unveiling will take place on December 28th at 17h. Many other Paris cathedrals feature life-size nativity scenes as well. Continuing up the rue Royale, you’ll hit the Tuileries and the gigantic Ferris wheel (La Grande Roue) with its spectacular view across Paris and the spectacular Champs-Elysées Christmas lights.
From Place de la Concorde you can walk along the Christmas Market lining the Champs-Elysées. Originating in Germany and Alsace, Christmas Markets spread throughout Europe in the 90s, and there are at least seven in Paris this year. There is also an indoor funfair at the Grand Palais, with yet another Ferris Wheel beneath its massive glass dome, plenty of other rides, games, and cotton candy.
Ice-skating rinks (patinoires) are opening up across town in mid-December, with the big ones at the Hotel de Ville and Trocadero. If you have young children, take them to Paris’s most adorable and accessible amusement park, the Jardin d’Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne (M° Les Sablons). The park is going all out for Christmas this year, with a light show, ice-skating rink, and Christmas Market. The rink is open every day from 10h to 20h through January 3rd.
(Image via Sweet Journey of Inspiration)
The Traditional Réveillon Meal
The French term réveillon simply refers to a festive meal held at night. Réveillon de Noël is Christmas Eve dinner, while the Réveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre, is on New Year’s Eve.
The traditional French Christmas meal consists of a lengthy procession of cold and hot dishes, the essentials being oysters, smoked salmon, foie gras, and coquilles St. Jacques (scallops). While turkey with chestnut stuffing remains the most traditional main course, chapon (capon), known for its superior tenderness and juiciness, is often preferred. An assortment of French cheese is followed by the Bûche de Noël (Yule log). It is the time to break out the finest wines from the cellar and quaff copious amounts of champagne. If you need large quantities of ice to chill your wine, order from Allo Glaçons, who delivers directly to your home. (Good news for lovers of bubbly, scientists have discovered that it is good for your health and actually reduces cellulite!
Historically, each province offers fascinating variations on this traditional meal, such as roast goose with cabbage, and glazed Christmas cookies in Alsace. I particularly love the Provençal tradition of preparing 13 fruit-based desserts (representing Jesus and the 12 apostles) originally served after midnight mass, including mendiants (chocolate mixed with hazelnuts, walnuts, dried figs, almonds, and raisins) along with nougat, melon, crystallized quince, dates, grapes, mandarin oranges, and calissons. In the North, they have the coquille de Noël, or pain de Jésus, an oblong brioche that evokes a baby Jesus wrapped up in a warm blanket, often served with salted butter and hot chocolate. I might just whip some up as a surprise for my ch’ti belle-famille. (If you haven’t seen the French cinema’s surprise hit of 2008, « Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis » the term ch’ti refers to inhabitants of the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region of France.)
New Year’s Eve meal includes much of the same, with the possible substitution of a poularde (the capon’s sister), lobster (homard), and langoustines thrown in. Many people also prepare boudin blanc, although I find boudin noir infinitely more flavorful (thanks to my adopted French Maman from Martinique). And of course, more oysters, more foie gras, and plenty of champagne!! It is customary in France to kiss underneath the mistletoe (gui) when the clock strikes midnight.
The final delice of the season comes on January 6th when the Epiphany is celebrated with the traditional galettes des rois. It commemorates the moment when the infant Jesus was visited by the Three Wise Men, Melchior, Caspar, and Balthazar who arrived from the three continents, Asia, Africa, and Europe, bearing gifts for the divine child. The basic galette des rois is made with puff pastry, frangipane, and contains a small favor known as la fêve. The person who finds la fêve in his portion of galette is designated king and allowed to choose his queen, or vice versa. Gold foil crowns are generally provided for the coronation. Each year, a Parisian patissier is awarded a prize for the best galette, and I encourage you to read the Press and choose your galette carefully, as all are not created equal! Some bakeries offer galettes that do not contain frangipane, which significantly modifies both texture and taste. You can make your own galette, which will probably be just as delicious, and substantially less expensive!
La crise de foie and the French Holiday Pharmacy
“Une boîte de citrate, s’il vous plait.” ‘Tis the season to stock up on citrate de bétaïne, while exchanging a knowing smile of complicity with your pharmacist. The French equivalent of Alka-Seltzer, citrate is as essential to the holidays as foie gras and champagne, and the inevitable crise de foie that accompanies overindulgence. Better than calling it heartburn or indigestion, the French expression “crise de foie” more aptly describes what happens when our poor, overwhelmed livers go into crisis mode. To lower the risk of hangover, try this recipe from a book of Hangover cures: 500mg of milk thistle, 2g of evening primrose oil (huile d’onagre), 1g of vitamin C, and a B-complex vitamin before drinking alcohol.(Hangover Cures, Octopus Publishing Group, Ltd., 2002. p. 7)
Make sure to call home, but on your terms & schedule
It is important to ensure that the connection with family afar remains intact. Thanks to Skype, you can actually “be there” and see the faces of your loved ones in all their holiday finery. But Skype can also be incredibly invasive. You don’t want the entire family Skyping just as you’re either getting out of bed, or into it, in the throes of cooking for 20 guests, or hopping into the shower. Schedule your family Skype ahead of time to ensure that the entire family or group is assembled in one happy time zone. It doesn’t have to be formal, but just organized enough to prevent it from turning into a long, awkward ramble with you being passed around like a digital hot potato!
Sending gifts home
Globalization oblige, I now buy many gifts for family back home online from vendors with US-based delivery, especially children’s gifts. There’s no sense in buying Lego in Paris and mailing it to America. Look for French brands with international web platforms that offer worldwide delivery, such as Eric Bompard, Isabel Marant, Sandro, Maje, Iro, APC, Petit Bateau, and Repetto. Border Links also has a list of brands that ship to the U.K. within 3-5 business days.
But when you do find something small and uniquely French to send home, you still have time to get it there via FedEx, DHL, or UPS. DHL and FedEx have offices near Opéra. UPS has pick-up points across town. All have French websites available in English.
Warn your relatives not to send gifts your way via the US Postal service if they can help it. I feel terrible when I see that someone has spent $50 on postage to send me a $20 gift for the kids. Once, the duty on a cardboard box full of Christmas presents sent by my well-intentioned mother was so high that I had to refuse the package. It is much simpler to buy gifts online and use their shipping. Even simpler,cut down on gifts and shift the focus to the things that really matter, love, unity, and peace on Earth! Happy holidays!
A little MANNA from Paris of Christmas links:
Where to attend midnight Mass in French?
Midnight Mass in Paris by Arrondissment on Evous.fr
Where to attend English-language Christmas service?
American Cathedral of Paris (Episcopal)
American Church in Paris (Interdenominational)
St. Michael’s Paris (Anglican)
Saint Joseph’s (Catholic)
Where to visit a lifesize Nativity Scene (la crèche)?
List of the prettiest Nativity Scenes in Paris.
Where to buy a Christmas Tree?
List of stores and areas where you can get your tree.
Where to recycle your Christmas Tree?
List of places to take your tree after the Holidays.
Where to buy Christmas decorations?
List of places with the prettiest decorations.
Where can the kids meet Santa Claus (Père Noël)?
List of places to find Santa.
Where to take the family ice-skating?
List of outdoor skating rinks.
Where to buy foie gras?
List of shops to find “the best” foie gras.
If you are having a party and need des glaçons
Ice Cube Delivery
Looking for something to do outside the house on the Christmas day?
Monuments and Museums open on December 25th
Lou Murrin-Honoré grew up in Ft. Worth, Texas and has lived in Paris for the past 25 years. She promotes cross-cultural understanding among children and adults through education and the arts. She designs and leads workshops at The School of Life, Paris and in French primary schools, to promote greater understanding of secularism and world’s religions. She is the happy mother of two boys, one who is in college in the States.
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